After a reading someone else’s recommendation of this establishment on the ever helpful [_] list, I read the website, sniggered a bit about the Biodynamic wines – grapes picked when the moon is at the right phase etc – and then had a moment of lust at the menu. Mmmm.
It’s definitely a chefs restaurant. The main ways you can tell this is by their disdain for vegetarians and their lack of interest in boring stuff. After talking to the very lovely Maitre D’, Liz, we learned that it had been set up by 3 chefs – Chris Wicks (Bell’s Diner, Berwick Lodge) as a silent partner, Dave Daly (Bordeaux Quay, Jamie’s Italian) and Jonathan Mackeson(Bell’s Diner) . They’re owner/chefs so one of them was cooking for us.
Their focus is on interesting wines that support the food and really, the person who buys the wines was spectacular (I believe it might be the lovely Liz) but we were recommended an amazing sparkling red wine for the aperitif – much lighter than the usual sparkling shiraz we sometimes drink. And then she recommended a lovely french Sauvingon Blanc to go with the rest of our meal. They may have a point with the biodynamic wines – they were awesome.
Rather agreeably, they politely offered us ‘bristol’s finest’ tap water or mineral water.
We ate squid in pomegranate, marinated anchovies, Gloucester old spot pork loin, celeriac puree, chanterelles & oloroso raisins and partridge with enochi mushrooms and some charlotte potatoes in creme fraiche. Apparently their slow baked dauphinoise is legendary.We finished with the cheese plate. Which was a selection of three local cheeses – a cheddar, a stilton and a bath brie – they need to work on their biscuits or bread with cheese strategy. They were a bit rubbish.
We went on a friday night, arrived at 8:30 and were the last people in the restaurant. It wasn’t packed but was gently humming for most of the evening and I suspect that as the name grows and the christmas season hit, it will get even busier.
I also like fact that the kitchen is open and you can see into it. It also looks sparklingly clean and shiny. They’re planning on running cookery classes in the new year on sundays and I’m really looking forwards to that.
Anyway, I totally recommend it, it’s fun, friendly, not too formal and the kind of place anyone would feel comfortable in. Go there http://threecoqsbrasserie.com/